I’ve seen so many 10" servers that look amazing from the front and very polished, but then having a rats nest of cables and a mess at the back.
After 62 iterations and many 3D prints, blood, sweat, profanity and tears. I my design and implementation is finally done.
This is Before:
And the After:
The ducky adds 200MHz
The front of my mini-rack is actually still somewhat of a mess, I thought I’d focus on the back first.
I’ve published it in excruciating detail on my GitHub Leave a Star if you like what you see
This looks great! Any thought on relay control? I built an 8 outlet box with relays inside so I can direct control power to each server with a Raspberry Pi. It runs PiKVM and is also attached to an 8 port KVM for control.
Uggg don’t give me ideas, I’ve already sunk way too much time into designing this 😅️🤣
So you could just put a relay between my power-module and your server, and it’s problem solved.
A redesign to incorporate one of these would be great, there are also variants that monitor power draw, so you’d be able to see each servers power usage and switch it on or off remotely.
Why are you doing this to me?
Serial power for anything with critical data… no thanks
One fails, everything after it fails
My setup is as resilient as this would be:
I haven’t added any failure-modes
I’m disappointed there’s not a duck on each rack.
There are more duckies, a lil giraffe and a turtle at the front
Great job it looks fantastic
Bestagons <3 great build!
Is there a reason for naming your website same as EU programme for education, training, youth and sport?
I mean, Erasmus is a pretty well-known historical figure (and where, I assume, that programme gets its name)
That’s where my mind went first.
Turns out we’re both wrong and it’s just OP’s name like he said in the other comment, but I’m curious how you made that connection? Not passing any judgement on it, just curious since your brain reached a different conclusion than mine and I’m curious how you got there.
I rolled into it few months ago and am getting ready for a exchange trip to Spain so it got burned into my brain by now.
erasmus is a perfectly cromulent name
My surname is Erasmus
gotta ignore trolls…
its not even close… https://erasmus-plus.ec.europa.eu/ vs https://erasmus.works/
wtf
I see…
The name has been in my family far longer than that program has existed, so the way I see it, if anything, they are copying me xD
I have the same plants; you have good taste, it’s undeniable
This is so organized that my eyes hurt. You should see my messy setup :(
I am…scaroused.
I don’t understand the purpose of the exposed daisy chained cables. If it is not meant to be frequently unplugged, then why not wire an internal bus of 14 awg with Wago?
I want it to be modular, so if I add another 2 servers, I can just add the server module in front, and its power module at the back.
It is pretty awesome, only real problem is that if you have to replace anything in the middle, you have to shutdown everything above it too.
That being said, it’s pretty fucking rad.
Looking good.
Nice work OP. Clean and sharp. These mini servers are awesome.
How is the power wired exactly? It looks like youve piggy backed off each cable before it, meaning the first cable is carrying the load from all after it which it usually isnt designed to do, should be fine if appropriately rated to the equipment.
Looks mint!
Yea each one runs through the previous module, so all the power goes through the first module.
IEC 13/14 connectors are rated for 10A (2300 W at 230 V) which isn’t much lower than what you can run through your wall outlet. And in reality they can probably handle 15A as they are commonly refereed to as “Kettle cords” and used by kettles which draw ~13 Amps.
That’s very high, to give you an idea the 6 things I have plugged in draws ~240w, so I could chain up ~60 mini PC’s and only then would I be over the ~2300w limit.
I do now mention this in the Safety section of my “How to build this” write up
Looks like youve done your research!
Depending on the kettle model, most draw just under 10A these days. General household outlets (at least in australia) are only rated for 10A anyway.
Ive used hundreds of kettle leads in my time and never seen one used for an actual kettle funnily enough
uk can go to 13A peak load on the standard 230v socket, but drawing that for a prolonged period will nuke the socket. 10a prolonged is perfectly safe in the uk.
Thanks for the photos and web site, it shows a bit what is happening inside and it’s great.
Sure thing, there’s lots more details on my GitHub Write-Up including how to wire it up etc.
I’ve thought about this exact problem and I find this very pleasing to look at. Nice work
Cool build. Please be aware there is a reason that Sockets are made from a plastic that does not melt nor burn. Everything near power connections is a potential fire hazard.
Ya. I don’t run more than 5A (basically a usb) through 3d printed stuff for that reason. Filament is designed to melt.
You run 5 amps through a USB?
You mean 5W?
I was assuming some kind of 3.3V or 5V logic, like an esp32 or an arduino. I don’t mess around with big power circuits at all. If I inject power it’s going to be pretty low wattage. Sorry for the confusion.
Thanks yea I made sure to add this Safety section to my write-up on how to build this yourself, and I reference back to it a lot, so it’s painfully clear.
I printed this in PETG which can take the heat easily, but ideally you use UL 94 V-0 which is also flame retardant.
I did make sure everything is very well insulated, and pulled hard on every connection to make sure it’s held down properly.
**Safety** This part carries live mains. Mains wiring kills people who get it wrong, and a fault in a printed enclosure can start a fire. Do not build it unless you are competent to wire mains and permitted to do so where you live. Sleeve or shroud all live terminals. PLA softens around 60 °C, PETG around 80 °C. Neither is flame retardant. Only a UL 94 V-0 filament is. Wire the protective earth if anything you plug in needs it. Build it at your own risk. I take no responsibility for injury, death, fire, or damage resulting from anything in this repository.I don’t want to be the “Deputy Downer” here, but I can’t stress the important of the v0 (we say v-naught) plastics in keeping you safe when it comes to electrical installations - for those that aren’t aware, they are plastics that have to self extinguish once the fault trips the electrical protection, should a fault occur that sets them on fire. (ie: once the electricity isn’t making it flame anymore, it has to put itself out)
Here is an example of how even low voltage DC can fault, and had the LED strip diffuser plastic not been v0 rated, we would have had a late night house fire into the roof when kids were asleep…
PETG in this kind of situation just becomes fuel and possible a very, very, very bad day…
I know v0 spools are more expensive, but cheaper than just about any of the disaster situation alternatives, so I always suggest you prototype with PLA/PETG but print v0 for the finals…
